<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss xmlns:taxo="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/taxonomy/" xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" version="2.0">
  <channel>
    <title>Dear Tom and Ray - Cartalk Newspaper Column</title>
    <link>http://cartalk.com/content/columns/</link>
    <description>The twice-weekly nationally-syndicated automotive Q&amp;amp;A column from America's funniest car mechanics, Tom and Ray Magliozzi.</description>
    <copyright>2009, Dewey, Cheetham and Howe</copyright>
    <dc:rights>2009, Dewey, Cheetham and Howe</dc:rights>
    <item>
      <title>Did Dennis almost get taken for a ride on his Prius' 55k service?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2009/January/02.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Today I took my 2005 Prius in for its 55,000-mile routine service. I have been basically faithful in getting service done on schedule since getting it new in May of 2005. In addition to the routine maintenance items, they suggested: (1) MAF (Mass Air Flow?) Sensor, $52; (2) Service Throttle Body, $89.95; (3) Vent Service, $70; (4) Drive Belt Noise, $135 (Replace Belt); (5) Adjust Parking Brake, $89.95; (6) Nitrogen Tire Service, $20; (7) Check Alignment Next Visit, $84.95. I did not elect to have them do any of these things today, deferring to the next service at 60,000 miles. And by the way, I've never heard any noise from the drive belt. What's up with all of this? Are they just trying to raid my wallet? If this stuff is routinely required, why is it not on the scheduled maintenance list? -- Dennis</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2009/January/02.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2009-01-06T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Today: why topping off the tank is a bad idea.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2009/January/01.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I got into an argument recently concerning whether I should top off when I fuel up. You know what I mean -- the pump shuts off, and I can either stop or put another half a gallon more in. Is that OK, or not? I notice some pumps say not to top off, and I was wondering why. Most reasons I have found online discuss fuel expansion, which, it seems to me, would be rather minimal. So now I am asking the experts ... can you point me in the right direction? -- Kurt</description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 01 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2009/January/01.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2009-01-01T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>What's would cause Sean's smokin' brakes?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/13.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have a four-wheel-drive 2005 Dodge Dakota with 32,000 miles on it. Since I had the front brake pads replaced four months ago, I have noticed a faint burning smell coming from the wheels after I drive to work. I took it back to the repair shop, and they could not find anything wrong. This weekend, I took it down a winding canyon road, and when I got to the bottom, there was smoke coming from the wheels, along with a strong burning smell. I took it to the Dodge dealer, and they can't find anything wrong with the brakes -- nothing charred, no pulsation and plenty of pad left. Do you have any idea why my brakes are smoking? -- Sean</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/13.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-30T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Why topping off the tank is a bad idea.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/12.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I got into an argument recently concerning whether I should top off when I fuel up. You know what I mean -- the pump shuts off, and I can either stop or put another half a gallon more in. Is that OK, or not? I notice some pumps say not to top off, and I was wondering why. Most reasons I have found online discuss fuel expansion, which, it seems to me, would be rather minimal. So now I am asking the experts ... can you point me in the right direction? -- Kurt</description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/12.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-26T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>What's causing Sean's brakes to smoke?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/11.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have a four-wheel-drive 2005 Dodge Dakota with 32,000 miles on it. Since I had the front brake pads replaced four months ago, I have noticed a faint burning smell coming from the wheels after I drive to work. I took it back to the repair shop, and they could not find anything wrong. This weekend, I took it down a winding canyon road, and when I got to the bottom, there was smoke coming from the wheels, along with a strong burning smell. I took it to the Dodge dealer, and they can't find anything wrong with the brakes -- nothing charred, no pulsation and plenty of pad left. Do you have any idea why my brakes are smoking? -- Sean</description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/11.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-26T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Are groaning brakes a cause for concern?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/10.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I had new brake pads installed about three weeks ago, and when I use the brake pedal to stop, the car makes a groaning noise. The mechanic told me that it takes about a month to "break the pads in," and that after that, the noise will go away. Is that correct? -- Adrienne</description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/10.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-18T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Is a burping fuel pump a dying fuel pump?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/09.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My husband and I have been married for two months. Recently I found out that his 1997 Dodge Dakota has been having a problem. He says, "You just have to burp it sometimes." What does that actually mean? He reports that his fuel pump gets "bubbles" in it, so he bangs on the fuel tank until the fuel can run again. Last Saturday when we were running errands, it happened twice. It was very embarrassing. He was initially using a long-handled wood splitting maul, but I told him it was not a good idea, so he upgraded to a rubber mallet. Please tell me exactly how long he can get away with this before his car will blow up -- or just die. We are NOT in a financial crisis; he can purchase a new vehicle. He does not plan to have his fuel pump replaced. He says he'll drive his truck until it really dies this time. Please tell me the correct phrase other than "Not safe, honey," or "Please get a new truck." These are not working. Winter is coming -- I don't want him to freeze to death under his truck with his rubber mallet. Thankfully yours. -- Courtney</description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/09.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-16T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Will Vicky's Volvo self-destruct if she doesn't shell out $600?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/08.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: You guys always make me laugh! And now I'm desperate for some car advice I can trust. I have a '98 Volvo V70 with 112,000 miles. A mechanic just told me I'm on borrowed time, as I have not changed the timing belt. He said it should have been done at 105,000 miles, and could break and screw up the engine at any time. Also, he said I should replace the water pump, as it would save the labor cost later on. I am afraid to drive the car at all ... the quote was $600, which I just can't do right now. I am a widow, so I don't have a "hubby's car" to drive instead. Thank you for your time, and keep up the laughs! -- Vicky</description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/08.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-11T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Which truck would you buy?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/14.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: If you had to buy an extended cab four wheel drive pick up truck, which would you choose from this list: Toyota, Nissan, Chevy S-10, Dodge Dakota, Ford Ranger. My main concerns are quality, price, handling, and looks. Paulo</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/14.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>I wish you guys would lighten up.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/07.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My '90 Buick LeSabre sometimes sounds like it has an open muffler. It has happened only three times in 15,000 miles of driving. Each time, I had been driving at expressway speed for at least an hour, then encountered heavy rain. Suddenly, the open muffler sound. I put the lever in Neutral and gunned it. It sounded like Saturday night at the drag strip! The noise lasted for five to ten minutes, then stopped of its own accord. My Buick dealer, usually pretty sharp, can't find anything wrong with the exhaust system even though I've had it in several times. What do you think? P.S. As a regular reader of your classy column, I'd like to offer some ad¬vice. I wish you guys would lighten up. Life is too short to be taking things so seriously all the time! Richard</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2008/December/07.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title />
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/13.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: My '90 Buick LeSabre sometimes sounds like it has an open muffler. It has happened only three times in 15,000 miles of driving. Each time, I had been driving at expressway speed for at least an hour, then encountered heavy rain. Suddenly, the open muffler sound. I put the lever in Neutral and gunned it. It sounded like Saturday night at the drag strip! The noise lasted for five to ten minutes, then stopped of its own accord. My Buick dealer, usually pretty sharp, can't find anything wrong with the exhaust system even though I've had it in several times. What do you think? P.S. As a regular reader of your classy column, I'd like to offer some ad¬vice. I wish you guys would lighten up. Life is too short to be taking things so seriously all the time! Richard</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/13.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>A paint job ought to last longer than three years.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/12.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have a question about paint. My three year old Chevy Beretta is losing its paint color. It started out as a black car, and now the entire trunk has turned completely gray, while the rest of the car has spider webbing cracks throughout the paint. The local dealership called GM, and told me that because my mileage is 50,000, GM would only pay 50% towards a new paint job. Does GM really believe that mileage affects paint? Had I owned this car only six months, and put 50,000 miles on it, would they be singing the same tune? Or does General Motors really believe that a paint job should only last 50,000 miles? What do you suggest? Marla</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/12.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The stone age "split boot."</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/11.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I have been informed that the rubber boots on my C.V. joints are getting worn and should be replaced. The job is quite expensive, however, since the front end has to be partially disassembled to re¬place these rubber sleeves. I was also told that there is a new type of boot allegedly on the market that is "state of the art," and comes with a "space age" adhesive. Is there such a boot on the market and do you recommend it? Cy</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/11.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Horsepower...clarify please.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/10.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: The guys at the watering hole are ready to fight over this one. One group believes that when you see "400 HP," that refers to the size of the engine. The other group says that the horsepower is measured by the power at the wheels. We've all agreed that your words are law. Help us out. Harry</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/10.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>An "old husband's tale":</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/09.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: In order to prevent carburetor problems, my practice has been to fill up my gas tank before it gets below one-quarter full. Trying to convince my wife to do the same has been difficult. What's your opinion? Possibly, if I can show her your opinion, she might decide to do it. Thanks. John</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/09.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>I'm a shorty and my seatbelt chokes me, help!</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/08.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: I hate wearing seat belts. And so does a friend of mine who is also very short. We hate them because they cross our necks and make us feel like we're being choked. In my last car, I was able to put the shoulder harness under my arm and it was fairly comfortable--although I realize that defeats its purpose. In my present car, I can't do that. I try to wear it...really I do...but I usually end up ripping it off in frustration. Got any ideas for me? Kate</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/08.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>I dropped the newspaper in the tub and obliterated it...</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/07.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Some weeks ago, I picked up my paper from my front porch and, as I always do, went right to your column. My wife and I argue over who will get to read your column first, so I try to get up early to beat her to it. I particularly enjoy the serious and thoughtful manner in which you fellas address car questions. You see, I work as a lawyer for the Iowa Attorney General's Office in the area of motor vehicle fraud. So I was particularly gratified to see your advice to "Tammy" regarding her '87 Pontiac Sunbird. She wrote that her car's odometer occasionally went backwards, and that it read 48,000 miles at the time. She wanted to know what the value of the car would be in 1995 if it had zero miles on it! In addition to giving her a technical explanation for her problem, you suggested that she wait until the odometer reads 5,000 miles and then trade it in, and not get greedy and wait too long, or it might go back to 99,999. While I know that this advice was tongue-in-cheek, I want to say thanks. If Tammy and others like her follow your advice, I or one of my cohorts in another state, will be able to sue Tammy under state and federal odometer laws. In these days of tough times for state governments, we should be able to bring in quite a few dollars in penalties from folks who operate vehicles with non-functional odometers and sell them without disclosing that the odometer readings aren't accurate. You see, under the federal odometer law, it's a federal crime (and state crime in many states) to operate a vehicle with a non functioning or disconnected odometer, if you do so with intent to defraud. It's also a crime to sell a vehicle and give a false odometer statement, as Tammy will do unless she tells the buyer that the odometer reading is not accurate. Not only would these actions be crimes, but injured consumers could sue Tammy for a minimum of $1,500, plus attorneys fees. In fact, anybody who buys the car following the time Tammy sells it could sue her. And if that isn't enough, the state Attorneys General could sue her, too. So, my advice to Tammy, and to other with nonfunctional odometers is: GET 'EM FIXED! And not only that, but also make sure you disclose the mileage as being "not actual" when you sell or trade the vehicle. Otherwise, you'll be in more trouble than I was the other morning when I dropped the newspaper in the tub and obliterated your column before my wife could read it. William L. Brauch Assistant Attorney General Consumer Protection Division Iowa Department of Justice</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/07.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Too much grease in the speedometer cable?</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/06.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: For a couple of years, the speedometer cable in my 1984 S-10 Blazer squeaked. As it approached 100,000 miles, I finally took it to a Chevy dealer to get it greased. Then I began to notice that even though my speedometer was reading 15 mph over the speed limit, everyone was passing me, including little old ladies in second gear, and normally ticket happy highway patrolmen. I checked the speedometer against my wife's car on the highway one day, and found that the speedometer registers 5-10 mph faster than I'm actually going. When I took it back to the dealer, they said nothing they did could have made the speedometer read incorrectly. Could they be at fault? How do I get it fixed? Carl</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/06.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Always step on the clutch when starting your car.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/05.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Here is my question. If you own a car with a manual transmission, which is better; starting the car with the clutch out and the shifter in Neutral, or pushing in the clutch while you start the car? Donald</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/05.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The chewing gum and spackle remedy.</title>
      <link>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/04.html</link>
      <description>Dear Tom and Ray: Since I consider myself a master mechanic, I decided to replace the thermostat on my '85 Escort my¬self. In the process, one of the three bolts on the thermostat housing sheared off in the block. My local garage was not able to extract it, and said the head would have to be removed so the bolt could be bored out. As it is now, with the bolt missing, I have a small leak around the housing. As I am loathe to invest $350 on a car with 100,000 miles and a dim future, can you suggest another remedy? Welding the housing to the block? Chewing Gum? Spackle? Anything? Greg</description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/1992/April/04.html</guid>
      <dc:date>2008-12-10T05:00:00Z</dc:date>
    </item>
  </channel>
</rss>

